Fitting Plaster Coving to improve the look of your room.

Fitting Plaster coving.

Required Tools

  • A plastic mitre block. Check that it is designed for cutting coving & that your coving fits! Ideally get one that marks out all the internal & external coving mitre cuts for you.
  • A saw for cutting the coving (I generally us a tenon saw or second-fix saw, just make sure it gives you a smooth cut.)
  • A pointing / gauging trowel or spatula for spreading the adhesive & filling any gaps.
  • Coving adhesive (I normally avoid ready mixed products but the ready mixed adhesive is more than adequate).
  • Drywall screws for fixing the coving in place whilst the adhesive dries.
  • Pencil for marking out & a tape measure for would you believe it, measuring.

Preparing to fit plaster coving

Measure the room at ceiling height before purchasing the coving & ensure you have more than necessary. After all if it’s your first time there’s bound to be a few miscuts.

Protect your floor or carpet!!! Cutting the coving is dusty & the adhesive can make a mess of your floor if you are not careful.

Fitting the coving

  1. Pick your start point & prepare to make your first cut.Look at the cuts on the mitre block & decide which angle you need to cut first. Is it a right internal a left internal a right external or a left external?When using the mitre block check:What cut am I trying to make?
    Which side is the coving supposed to be presented into the mitre block from?
    Is the ceiling edge squarely on the floor of the mitre block & the wall edge on the side of the mitre block? Then just for good measure double-check!!It sounds simple & it is, but you will get it wrong unless you really concentrate & check.So you’ve made your first cut & now you need to measure the wall to see what length your 2nd cut need to be at.
  2. Repeat step 1. above ensuring that you select the correct angle for the 2nd cut e.g. you have a right internal on one end of the coving & a left internal on the other end or whatever external is required.
  3. Present the cut coving to the wall / ceiling to check that it fits & make sure it sits nicely on both the wall & the ceiling. Mark the top & bottom of the coving at both ends on the wall & ceiling with a pencil. These will be your guides for the next pieces.
  4. Get ready to cut your 2nd length of coving. Select the required cut & Repeat step 1. & step 2. above.
  5. Now that you have cut your 2nd length you can present that to the wall / ceiling & mark the ends as in step 3. above. Hopefully one end should correspond closely to the marks from you first coving run. If so present both lengths of coving to the wall / ceiling to verify you have a good corner join.If not, double-check your cuts.
  6. At this point you’re flying, the missus has phoned from the bistro in Kings Road John Lewis & is in danger of maxing out the credit cards, but the money you’re saving on not employing professional plasterers will more than compensate.
  7. Once you have a few runs of coving cut & are happy with the corner joins at both ends you can think about fixing them in place. ‘Butter up’ the ceiling & wall edges of the cut coving with coving adhesive using your spatula or pointing / gauging trowel & present the coving to the wall / ceiling. A few drywall screws driven in at an angle will help secure the coving until the adhesive sets. Make sure that there are no pipes or electrical cables in the vicinity. If in doubt consult a professional to fit the coving for you.Ensure that the coving is on your pencil guides!!
  8. Repeat step 7. for the next piece of coving & work you way round the room. At this rate you’ll be done by final score.
  9. Fill any screw holes or small gaps with coving adhesive remembering less is more sometimes & try to keep everything as clean as possible. Once the adhesive sets it’s not easy to remove. Sponge down areas where unwanted adhesive is & clean off excess with your trowel or spatula.